Caserta

After two overcast and rainy days, we awoke to a clear, crisp, and cold morning in Cassino.

From our (unused) balcony, we could now see a dusting of snow on the mountains to the northeast.

As the sun peaked over the hills south toward San Vittore del Lazio, we swung our backpacks over our shoulders and walked into Cassino’s downtown, quietly grateful for the simple ritual of pastries and cappuccinos that now grounded our mornings.

Enlivened by another visit to Naples Coffee Bar, we walked to the train station with time to spare before our 10:05 train to Caserta. The Abbey of Montecassino perched high on the hilltop never failed to impress.

Ready for our train to Caserta.

As our train rolled south, we caught a final, distant glimpse of San Vittore del Lazio, the hills behind it graced with an overnight fresh powdering of snow.

The trip to Caserta was a quick 1:15. A short walk later we found ourselves checking in at Hotel dei Cavalieri Caserta—La Reggie (Knights of the Royal Palace Hotel). Afterward we crossed Piazza Luigi Vanvitelli and walked into Caffè Italia for this rather uninspired focaccia pizza.

At least they offered these pudding-like chocolate desserts. I had Extra Fondente (extra dark chocolate) and Dave had Nocciola (hazelnut).

Next it was off to tour of Reggia di Caserta (Royal Palace of Caserta).

The Palace of Versailles near Paris, France, was built first, and the Bourbon kings of Naples explicitly desired to rival it.

Caserta feels like it should be Versailles’ equal, but when you actually walk it, it comes off underwhelming by comparison.

Luigi Vanvitelli was the architect of Royal Palace of Caserta. This statue was in the Piazza Luigi Vanvitelli outside our hotel.

Then it was out to the grounds of the 18th century landscaped park and water gardens.

At the far end of the water gardens with the palace along the horizon.

Heading back.

Nearly back.

After 23,600+ steps and 11 miles, we deserved a great dinner at Osteria Nunziatina. For our antipasti we had "half a mozzarella and eggplant pizza" - bread crust with fennel seeds, with mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, and fried eggplant. A real treat!

For dinner I had Linguine Di Martino, Salina capers, Gaeta black olives, oregano, and cherry tomatoes from Mount Vesuvius. Deliziosa!